Looking Beyond Torrontés —The Red Wines of Salta

Argentina’s rugged northwest, namely the provinces of Salta, Jujuy and Tucumán, are often ascribed otherworldly qualities in the types of guidebooks one would consult when contemplating a visit. The dreamscapes one can find in places like Talampaya and la Quebrada could easily lead one to suspect that wine, let alone any other form of agriculture would be an unlikely, if not altogether unfruitful venture. Nevertheless, viticulture has been widely practiced in Salta, albeit with better manifestations more recently, since the Spanish undertook their enterprise of colonizing the area in the 16th century.

Quality wine production in Salta, however, has come quite a long way since the days of a viticulture that solely served its purpose on the altar at mass. The Calchaquí and Cafayate valleys are two particularly exceptional zones, where viticulture is practiced in one of its extreme forms. The challenges involved here in Salta go much beyond considerations such as arid soils and extreme temperatures. Some winemakers, defiantly, have successfully harnessed these challenges and the staggering altitudes to craft unique and expressive wines. The altitude and extremes between daytime and night time temperatures contribute to a seemingly tantric ripening period for several white and black varieties, resulting in exquisite acidity levels in the wines. You have probably already heard recently of Argentina’s native aromatic variety, Torrontés. Salta’s terroir is where this highly idiosyncratic white variety expresses its benchmark floral, pungent characteristics. You may have tried some from Mendoza, though I assure you these cannot even approach the best of Salta’s Torrontés in terms of complexity.

The point of this post, though, transcends that which you already know and has been discussed about Salta’s success with Torrontés. In fact, leave the Torrontés to the side for just a moment, and please turn your gaze towards the unbelievable red wines of Salta, which in case you care about staying ahead of the curve, will begin garnering quite a bit of attention in the near future. In effect, this all largely stems from the fact that in recent years, some of the best producers from within Salta, as well as from Mendoza, have purchased and developed Salta’s viticultural real estate in order to pursue their craft in a completely different terroir altogether. The likes of Susana Balbo, Colomé and Michel Torino, to name a few, are all taking advantage of the acidity levels in high-altitude ripening fruit to offer up versatile, distinctive wines made from Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat, the star behind southwest France’s Madiran.

I think that now might just represent that opportune moment to quietly learn about and appreciate these Salta reds—especially since a handful of Salta-produced Torrontés have cleaned up medals at award ceremonies, as well as done the rounds in way too many “undiscovered wine pairings” local morning show segments where overly energetic hosts obnoxiously insert the Spanish ‘ñ’ phoneme where it’s unnecessary in the pronunciation of many Italian and Spanish culinary terms. At any rate, the bottom line here is that given the current economic climate, the exchange rates involved, and the surging growth in Argentine exports to the United States, it would be very rewarding for you to become acquainted with the other quality production regions outside of the Mendoza area. I encourage you to swiftly and stealthily make your way over to retailers who pour and offer treasures from San Juan, La Rioja (Famatina Valley), Salta, Neuquén and other areas, before the glossy magazines rate them and start to offer shockingly original pairing suggestions such as, let’s see, a medium-rare steak. On my end, I promise to taste and offer faithful snapshots of some of these wines that have begun to trickle into the UK market and will subsequently appear on American distribution lists.

What should I be on the look-out for, you might ask, then? As far as promising, expressive red varieties from Salta at the moment, Tannat and Malbec are on center stage, though pay close attention to Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, as I can easily foresee some truly exceptional and absurdly inexpensive examples coming through very soon. Regrettably, whenever fine new examples from any wine region begin to garner even the slightest bit of attention or praise from large-dissemination media, prices spike like a thermometer during a heat wave; as, surely, this will shortly be the case with the spectacular Chilean Pinot Noir wines that have recently stepped onto the scene. Take my advice—taste now and stock up soon—because it will get more expensive and decidedly more frustrating (read: annoying) in the near future.

Salta Red Playlist:

*2007 El Esteco Tannat—Michel Torino’s Mendoza-farmed wines are widely regarded as honest, expression-driven wines in the internal Argentine market; though, I suppose this is why they may not be as widely available on international markets. The family’s estate in the Calchaquí valley is no exception to the rule, crafting Tannat that has completely changed the way I perceive the variety. Most of the New World stand-alone Tannat I have tasted (sorry, Uruguay), has been a bit rough around the edges to a point beyond which it was acceptable—easily letting one envision why it is blended so well in Madiran. Michel Torino’s Esteco Tannat stands alone, unoaked, featuring elegant black fruit flavors that are not baked in the least, with a sophisticated mouthfeel for such a young example of the variety. Concentrated black fruit dominates the palate, with nuances of mint, chocolate and rustic spice—all subdued and playing well together. I love how this wine doesn’t seem contrived to me, not concealing aspects of Tannat that export markets generally repudiate —it seems crafted to interpret the variety’s character through Salta’s terrains. I was very happy with this one—the antithesis to the lazy if not even inept winemaking mentality that reds which are not oak-petrified will not express themselves suitably on their own.

*2006 Cornejo Costas Don Rodolfo Label Malbec—Think you have Malbec’s personality nailed down expertly because you tasted up and down the Mendoza aisle? Think again—this is an entirely different expression of Malbec. Blackcurrant dominates the fruit side of things, along with some impressive red berry acidity to add balance. It features lovely, concentrated spice and toast, with vanilla being nowhere in sight, thankfully.

*2005 Cornejo Costas Don Rodolfo Label Tannat—Think cassis,black cherry and a mature texture evincing finesse, alongside dried tobacco leaf and dusted cocoa.

The Wines of Susana Balbo and Pedro Marchevsky: A New World Paradox and a New Paradigm

I have long been an admirer of Susana Balbo and her partner in crime, Pedro Marchevsky. If you are not entirely familiarized with what they do, stated simply—they are Argentina’s artisan wine power couple. For one, Susana Balbo is one of Argentina’s most celebrated enologists, as well as the current President of Wines of Argentina. Her husband and partner, Pedro Marchevsky, holds a distinguished faculty position at Mendoza’s Universidad Nacional de Cuyo.

The most important thing to consider, however, is that they are together blazing a path for Argentine wines that in my view at least, all New World wine producers should closely follow. Through their joint Dominio del Plata winery, as well as their own labels (BenMarco, Crios and Nosotros), Susana and Pedro craft highly expressive, idiosyncratic wines that represent intelligent values at several price points. The ethos underlying their production centers on extracting a faithful imprint of the Argentine terroirs they work with (various Mendoza and Salta microclimates), and in the process, stating a very distinctive point of view in the process. If we regard this point of view alongside Sartre’s assertion that no action lacks deliberate political connotations, then in Susana and Pedro’s wines, we can discern what a amounts to a categorical refusal to pursue one-note, Mendozan imitations of classic old world styles. Nevertheless, I feel that we should step back for a moment to consider what this winemaking philosophy actually implies in Argentina, as well as what it can imply across various New World contexts.

The horizon has changed dramatically throughout the whole of Argentina’s wine panorama during the last few decades. In my grandparents’ time, which does not span so many decades ago from now, well before the age of origin-branded marketing and the great race to export en masse, the consumer’s range of choices in the country’s internal market closely mirrored Australia and California’s. People used to pick up bottles of imaginatively labeled “Chablis,” “Bourgogne” and “Bordeaux,” among several other, imitative yet unflattering possibilities. If during these times, one was naive enough to ponder whether the quality of an Argentine wine would ever be prized or sought-after by anyone outside of the country, the reaction would have been marked with a great deal of sarcasm and condescension. Furthermore, to have proposed that the Mendozan producer should stray away from the classic paradigm (generally Bordeaux), would have only elicited further ridicule.

When reconsidering the contemporary scene, however, I realize that it has been the dedicated labor of visionaries such as Susana and Pedro who have shown other producers the way in terms of crafting wines that convey true expression of their origin and individuality. Ironically and much to the chagrin of the global style homogenization evangelists (see Mondovino), Pedro and Susana’s wines have garnered considerable acclaim, all without having had to sacrifice authenticity and go the way of taking the advice of Michel Rolland and other “Flying Winemakers.” (Once again, I cite Mondovino as a seminal source for a more complete background on the phenomenon).

Quite sadly, there is an large market presence of Argentine, as well as other New World wines that conform to the global, homogenized style predicated by such “consultants” all over the world’s major export markets. Despite it being quite easy for a wine producer to be seduced by their rationale, I have no reservation, as an Argentine, in regarding their advice and agenda on par with that of the IMF and World Bank’s neoliberal guidelines that, along with some already shaky Argentine leadership, lead to economic ruin in the past few decades. Why do I equate these types of recommendations under the same analogy? Very simply put, the wine style homogenization gurus as well as the failed neoliberal trade models (FF to min. 18) are both centered on the faulty notion of a one-way street relationship between the supplier and the demands of its clientele. In the context of Argentina’s political economy policies, the IMF and World Bank used the leverage of illegitimately acquired debt (military dictatorship) to enslave the nation, at all costs, to serving the specific demands of its trade partners. In turn, when we consider this type of mentality in the context of the wine trade, in turn, should people like Rolland have their way, Argentina’s producers would theoretically be well-off, though incapable of producing and exporting actual Argentine wine anymore. The ironic, Twilight-Zone-esque quality of this scenario would ultimately amount to a strange relation of servitude where the production goals of a nation with an actual wine heritage would largely be dictated by those from nations with, generally, no wine heritages to speak of, where wine is simply a luxury good no different than a designer handbag. How ironic—a world in which a boring, upper middle-class Japanese or American management type with a cooler-wine cellar would be able lecture me on what the wines from my country are supposed to taste like. It is when considering these grim scenarios and quasi-realities when I am most grateful for Susana and Pedro’s example.

In light of the above considerations, Susana and Pedro’s achievements are unbelievable when considering the pressures of the points-based, often fashion-inspired, consumer manipulation machine that New World producers have had to contend with in the most rewarding export markets they seek entry into. This unfortunate reality rewards certain producers for very particular styles (mostly “easy drinking,” globalized ones), regardless of origin, resulting in the hyping and artificially inflated and increasingly unaffordable prices for those wines. It is precisely when one considers the ramifications of the complete picture, the whole cycle, when one starkly realizes that Susana and Pedro’s wines truly represent an exception to the rule. Their great international success verges on the allegorical because it can serve as a viable example, yet transcends mere irony and luck; it represents a new possibility that completely changes the way in which this game can be played. Think about it: A New World winemaker sustainably farms fruit, handcrafts expressive, elegant wines that score incredibly well with the wine press, as well as with consumers’ pocketbooks. Once uncorked at home, the wine itself transports the consumer to Luján de Cuyo and entirely informs their impressions of that land, not a “consulting winemaker.”

Upon tasting these wines, one comes away with a sense that this manner of production can truly lift Argentina beyond the threshold of being considered a classic region into something that would well approach more of a critical consensus—and amazingly, at no cost to the country’s image or integrity. The chapters of our national narrative that precede these times, from the 1970’s onwards, in particular, have truly injured our self-image as Argentines, a precarious amor propio. I feel that winemakers such as Susana and Pedro are a credit to our amor propio, conveying the real potential of Argentine wines that we want those outside of our borders to perceive. Furthermore, wines such as these showcase much more than the potential that Argentine wine can achieve. They forebode, in no uncertain terms, a new paradigm that any New World producer can emulate—a new, better way from which producers can achieve both financial success as well as renown, honoring the terroir prominently instead of relegating it to a secondary postcard-like image on the label.

The bottom line that the wine lover should ultimately come away with? Susana and Pedro’s wines are real winemakers’ wines. The following selection that I enthusiastically recommend represents unmissable values at three distinct price points, from recent vintages.

Susana Balbo and Pedro Marchevsky Playlist:

*2006 Crios de Susana Balbo Syrah-Bonarda—This is a gorgeous 50-50 blend of Syrah and Bonarda. This is the most affordable of my selections (at about $11). Loved the intense aroma of black raspberries. Here’s my review on Snooth, to save you some reading.

*2006 BenMarco Cabernet Sauvignon—An indisputable bargain, even steal in the $15-$20 range, depending on the retailer. A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and soft, supple Malbec stepping in as the other 15%. My favorite of the trio here, this is one of the best Mendoza Cabernet-lead blends out there. Pedro’s Cabernet is a must-try bargain and full of sophisticated balance and expression. Insanely intricate, layers of depth, blackberry, spice, cedar and concentration where the oak accompanies the band instead of playing at a higher volume.

*2005 BenMarco Expresivo—If you are tired of Bordeaux-themed New World red blends that all seem to be made in a uniform style, I heartily recommend this wine. In a nutshell, the Expresivo represents a master class in blending by Professor Marchevsky. Again, I have also rated this one on Snooth. This one retails in the $35-$45 range, depending on where you can get the best deal available.

Great Sicilian Merlot—Lessons For Rising Wine Regions

Sicily is an exciting place to be making wine these days. Producers that range from tiny family outfits to the major estates are all playing various roles in the internationalization of the region’s presence and potential clientele. That very process, of increasing the notoriety of Sicilian wines, of course, does not preclude both sacrifice and experimentation. Much like in other exciting regions such as Spain’s Somontano, experimentation with international grape varieties can drastically set the production profile apart. Seeing how, unfortunately, many of the largest export markets such as the United States seem to be fashion and trend-driven, being at the forefront in some ways can prove to be quite beneficial. In turn, sacrifice comes into the picture when such experimentation casts aside indigenous varieties and yields spoofed, confected and to a great extent, contrived wines bereft of the terroir’s individuality.

The more one reflects upon this dialectic between experimentation and sacrifice, which producers of all scales face when tending to their craft in promising regions that are in the process of developing the capacity to attract the world at a level that New World nations have done, the more I see Sicily on the winning side of the equation. Even if the creation of the IGT scheme (indicazione geografica tipica) in 1992, to allow for much-needed innovation in Italian winemaking has attracted criticism, this measure, along with investment, has done Sicilian wine much good. Critics have alluded to a point that can best be characterized in the following way: “Innovation is wonderful, but what can the IGT label guarantee, in terms of quality?” The point is a valid one, as in a parallel situation, one cannot really know how great a disparity in quality to expect when presented with two bottles of French Vins de Pays. The issue of disparity, in light of this example especially, can particularly become a prominent annoyance. One bottle may be lovely, whereas the other one may be insipid. Though a fair point to bring up, I think that those who dismiss the Vin de Pays, as well as the Italian IGT schemes are reluctant to acknowledge an “elephant in the room” of sorts that is pertinent to such a discussion—the painstaking work involved in tasting enough to discern between enormous gulfs in quality.

This last aspect of the discussion is what brings me to my conclusion regarding Sicily’s developing industry. Taking into account the type of challenge that Italy’s IGT scheme presents to producers as well as consumers, as well as the usual set of industry factors that together yield a barometer reading for success, so to speak, I am anticipating many great things coming out of Sicilian vineyards and cellars over the next decade. The level of investment necessary is there, along with serious local involvement and conscientious integration of the indigenous varieties and perspectives that yield something unique. In light of the global financial downturn, consumers in all the major export markets are as open-minded as ever when seeking out quality bargains. Having had the opportunity to taste the wines of the prestigious estates that are spearheading Sicilian wines’ cause to the world, as well as the efforts of more modest cooperatives, my research has always yielded nothing more than pleasant surprises. Egregious discrepancies in terms of quality, as a result of the IGT scheme, may perhaps be more of relevant a discussion point in regions such as the Veneto, but not yet in Sicily.

One of the most important lessons to draw from watching a developing region like Sicily is the paramount importance of diversity. From a producer’s standpoint, it is simply not good enough to adopt innovative methods and practices alone, but to complement the approach with diversity. A great many of the Sicilian Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese and blends featuring indigenous varieties such as Nero d’Avola all provide a unique opportunity for showcasing the island’s distinct strengths. This reminds me of a relatively recent episode in the world of wine, where a handful of Bulgarian producers began to make exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon. Sadly, however, when reminded of the varietal-driven trends, sometimes by fashion, though increasingly clinical studies about the benefits of consuming wine, the Bulgarian producers had not anticipated the degree of experimentation their innovative approach would require to yield a diverse panoply impressive enough to generate the buzz required to attract more attention. For better or for worse, and if one permits the expression, the world now moves much too swiftly to put all of one’s grapes in one basket. The surge in notoriety of Sicily's quality wines, at all price points, is well evidenced by this particular lesson.

This Week’s Pick: 2007 Cusumano Merlot Sicilia IGT

I never thought that any of the Cusumano wines, at the varietal label level at least, would ever really elicit much more excitement than a passive nod. Not in the case of this Merlot, however, which happens to be a great example of how Sicilian wines are capable of putting on a masterful tightrope act. Rather than sacrificing originality and aligning with the juicebomb-oak paradigm that many New World producers turn to, this Merlot’s expressiveness is a real breath of fresh air. Despite the plain, unassuming packaging, this intelligent value Merlot packs great varietal expression with the island’s warm, west-central climate’s tendency toward spice notes and good concentration. Full-bodied but with a smooth texture,the prune and soft berry flavors are nicely balanced with berry acidity. Other complex accents include subtle pepper, liquorice, cinnamon and a hint of smoke. Though a couple of years in the cellar would certainly help develop more finesse, this is a great wine to enjoy now. It would pair well with a beef stew or a mushroom dish with a similarly hearty sauce.

Playlist: Bargain New World Sauvignon Blanc

My last post offered a brief discussion on the idea that as a result of the global economic downtown, even mid-priced New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc may now be a bit too expensive for consumers. The thinking behind this observation is nothing novel if we gloss over the range and tone of predictions intended for 2009, both in terms of economics and in the wine industry, that sprang up during the final days of last year. Nevertheless, my discussion in the post mentioned above intends to address a question that would logically arise after considering the economic downturn—Which New World nation’s producers, on a whole, would be the most likely to equal or perhaps even overtake New Zealand’s long-held, benchmark style of New World Sauvignon Blanc?

My two leading candidates, in terms of being close to going nuclear, as far as our question is concerned, are Chile and South Africa. Though several producers in both nations are now ever so close in being capable of consistently offering something of the quality of a New Zealand, south-island Sauvignon Blanc, I truly feel that Chile has the depth, experience, commercial cunning and promotional savvy to successfully establish an updated, recession-proof alternative benchmark New World style of Sauvignon Blanc.

In light of this, my post today offers some wines that I heartily enjoyed tasting, and thus recommend, to assist you in essentially deciding the above matter for yourself. The key to understanding my multi-national tasting playlist here is this—despite the obvious price differences between the wines, I felt that all of the selections were comparable, relatively at least, to the lovely Clocktower Sauvignon Blanc from the post’s photo (£9/$13). Take note, as a result, of the implied differences in production costs, ease of access to markets and mark-ups that nevertheless, generally yield cheaper Chilean wines in the end. Though these are advantages that the Chileans have egregiously abused in the past, exporting practically anything that could be bottled under the rubric of wine, I am nevertheless feeling much better about what lies ahead.

As a result of quite a bit of tasting and shopping around, I feel certain that the following wines represent some of the best intelligent values out there, and hopefully, the list illustrates my insight in why I contend that South Africa is close, though it will be the Chileans who are best poised to give New Zealand’s Sauvignon Blanc producers a serious run for their money in 2009 and the years ahead.

A final note concerning the Chileans’ innovative wine production exploits—The 6th Annual Wines of Chile Awards concluded last week with a shock, resulting in the coveted “Best of Show” prize going to the Norwegian-owned, OdfJell Vineyard’s Orzada Malbec. Whether my past experiences in tasting Chilean Malbecs have been a bit dispiriting and nothing much to speak of, this bit of news should certainly serve as a wake-up call to Mendoza’s producers who exhibit complacent attitudes similar to, say, some of New Zealand’s value Sauvignon Blanc producers. My dear Mendoza producers—you do not own some sort of lifetime patent on quality New World Malbec, with guaranteed domination in export and sales figures, so please become more innovative or be prepared to make room for others.

Bargain New World Sauvignon Blanc Playlist:

*2008 Clocktower Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand (£9/$13).

Notable South African SB:

* 2007 Reyneke Sauvignon Blanc Stellenbosch (£12/$17.38)

*2008 Buitenverwachting Sauvignon Blanc Constantia (£10/$14.50)

*2007 Springfield Special Cuvee Sauvignon Blanc Robertson (£10/$14.50)

Notable Chilean SB:

*2007 Anakena Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (£7.50/$10.85)

*2008 Nimbus Estate Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (£7.60/$10.99)

*2008 Montes Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley (£5.52/$7.99)

***Note on prices and availability—Where are these prices coming from? How do I find one of these wines to try at home? Just use Wine Searcher or Snooth, not forgetting to edit your location preference. Please keep in mind that these search services find approximate average prices, so don’t go away with the idea that I bargain-hunted the lowest price for each wine in both locations (US and UK) and posted those prices. You may well find a cheaper price for one of my average prices posted; in the case that this should occur—well done!

Granted, some of these wines are much easier to find in the UK, with others being more widely available in the US. My intention in picking several, similarly delicious examples of quality Chilean and South African Sauvignon Blanc was to illustrate the point in my last post. As a matter of example, if the 2007 Anakena Single Vineyard is not available in your area, the comparable Nimbus might be easier to find, and so on.

The Current Arms Race Towards a Benchmark Value New World Sauvignon Blanc

A great deal of conversation in the wine world has recently been devoted to the notion of 2009 being the year of value wines, especially in light of the global financial meltdown that transpired nearing the end of 2008, along with the menacing prospects it imposes on imports and retail demand. Despite there being myriad of differing opinions on the wine trends that will characterize this year, perusal of various sources that chimed in on the topic produced a steady consensus regarding 2009 being “the year of the value wine.” For illustrations of these perspectives, look no further than Slashfood, Jamie Goode and Winecast.

Making my way along the major New World countries’ tasting stands at the London Wine Show in the final, fleeting months of 2008 made me ponder just how long it would be before consumers who regularly purchase good-quality, mid-priced New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc would have to bargain down. The second part of this question to explore, would naturally be—which New World regions could US and UK consumers count on to produce what we could well regard as a new benchmark style of quality, inexpensive New World Sauvignon Blanc?

Now, in no way am disputing the established, general consensus that New Zealand’s Wairau Valley has given the world a benchmark for the New World style of Sauvignon Blanc. A question comes to mind, however, when considering the prospects of other New World producers and Sauvignon Blanc. Which of these countries would be optimally poised to follow in the footsteps of New Zealand, and gulp, perhaps even overtake the Kiwis in producing something of comparable caliber? Could this notion be feasible by taking advantage of factors such as relatively lower production costs and the current economic maelstrom, in order to offer the wines at a considerably lower, unquestionably more competitive price?

Just which New World wine-producing powers could answer the above questions with compelling offers? The usual contenders, perhaps? We should probably go down the line, then. Unfortunately, Argentina has not had much luck with Sauvignon Blanc, save for a few rare examples. Who else? Most of my tastings of Australian Sauvignon Blanc have sort of gone in the same way as the Argentine examples—a strictly inconsistent, hit-or-miss roulette. Who else could have a real shot at this? I recently attended tastings both in the US and UK that focused on South African Sauvignon Blanc, and I must say that I was wholly underwhelmed at all price points. On the positive side of things for the South Africans at least, they’re giving it a go and it looks somewhat promising; but can it be achieved soon enough, within a more immediate time frame?

Who did I leave out? Why, Chile of course. Could the Chileans somehow achieve what none of these other New World production powers can at the moment? Considering how hard consumers pockets are being hit throughout the world, it would make good sense if Chilean producers could somehow offer a Sauvignon Blanc that rivals the quality of the New Zealand competition, though at an ideal 15%-25% mark-down perhaps. Could this really happen? Well, across the board, when compared to many of the abovementioned New World wine nations, several of Chile’s sub-regions seem to share a great deal in the way of similarities with New Zealand’s, in terms of micro-climates, soils, topographies and overall growing conditions that underlie excellent Sauvignon Blanc production. Above all, perhaps, the Chileans have mastered economies of scale, marketing, and for better or worse, fine-tuning their cellar equipment to the needs and desires of major export markets. I’ve tasted some very promising Chilean Sauvignon Blancs recently, particularly in November at the London Wine Show. The most impressive of the lot were produced in three distinct regions and at varying corresponding altitudes, a factor which yields astoundingly different variations of Sauvignon Blanc in terms of tropical fruit scents, minerality and concentration. Should one want to see just what breadth of diversity that conscientiously crafted Sauvignon Blanc is capable of achieving in Chile, look no further than wines from Elqui valley, Casablanca valley and Leyda, in particular.

Taking into account how its fellow New World colleagues are faring with the variety, Chilean producers would be well advised to seriously think about the proposition of consolidating and confirming some degree of supremacy in producing blockbuster specimens of inexpensive Sauvignon Blanc at the caliber of the competition, which in this case would consist of mid-priced New Zealand south-island examples. With the cash-strapped consumers looking for the next great bargain from the New World, and the South Africans still lagging just a tiny bit behind, the question then remains, who will get there first?

***POST-SCRIPT: If you really want to judge for yourself, though, how about some sort of tasting or formal event to help you decide who will conquer the New World bargain Sauvignon Blanc arena in 2009? No sooner than I am about to publish this post, I have received an e-mail from WSET, advertising a London event known as “The Travelling New World Wine” series. Guess which three New World countries are represented in the series? Even better than one could manage by oneself, this type of series is the ideal setting to take the pulse of Chile, New Zealand and South Africa’s overall production, across distinct varieties and regions. I highly recommend attending at least one of the courses, each of which holds two sessions.